Our first night in Hamburg was deadly, but I bounced out of bed at 9am, while the Liar and the Scoundrel still lay prone. There were three reasons for this difference in ability:
1. I am as tough as nails,
2. I was still drunk, and
3. I had thrown up a lot the night before.
I jumped on the U-Bahn and made my way to the Rathaus to do the walking tour of Hamburg. The last time I stayed in this city, I stayed at a dry hostel run by militant nuns. It did not make for a good impression. This time, I got to learn about the beauty of Hamburg.
Immediately upon leaving the station, the Rathaus dominates the view. This is Hamburg's second Rathaus, and I have a story to tell about what happened to the first.
Just next to the Rathaus is a monument to those killed in the world wars. Although it was erected before the outbreak of world war I, this monolith has been altered since the Nazi reign to better reflect the attitudes of a progressive Germany. I was overwhelmed.
The Rathaus itself is decorated quite strategically. Hamburg, as a free state, never bowed to the Kaisers of Germany. So while they are all portrayed by statues along the facade of the building, the professions of the craftsmen of Hamburg are placed above them. Two statues stood out for me; the legendary 'heroic era' rulers of the city.
St. Michaels is a site often visited by pilgrims, and as such marks a number of other pilgrimage routes.
The church itself is supposed to be built on the site of the Hammerburg fortress, which was the heart of the city. It is also the highest point in Hamburg (which is really not that high. Not a city of hills and valleys).
The city is filled with statues commemorating the artesians and craftsmen who made it great, a tribute to its status as a free city-state.
The city is full of counting-houses, which did bookwork for the great trading companies operating out of Hamburg. These are all spectacularly decorated buildings.
Chile house was very impressive, from its statues (representing the country with which it traded, a rooster, a fat baby, a bear, nothing, an eagle and another fat baby),
to its overall shape, which is supposed to imitate a ship. At one stage, this was the sharpest corner on a building in the world.
Afrikahaus, on the other hand, holds the slightly racist image of a traditional "African" warrior, and a couple of elephant statues.
The old Rathaus is now the site of a major charity organisation in Hamburg. During the great fire of 1842, there was a theory put forward that a great explosion would deprive the surrounding atmosphere of oxygen, sucking the fire out. As such, the old Rathaus was filled with dynamite and, as the fire approached, the people of Hamburg blew it up. This plan failed. Spectacularly.
As I have said, the counting houses are well decorated, sometimes with images of their trade,
And sometimes with strange, personal meanings. Like the statue of a poodle.
This handsome fellow is Count Adolf. He overlooks the new city of Hamburg, which he built.
St Nicolai, the patron saint of the city (please correct me if I got this wrong, I'm drunk) looks out over the old city, which he has always protected.
St Nicolai's was once a mighty cathedral, but after the fire-bombing of the city in world war II, it was left a ruin as a memorial. It features a mighty bell-organ, which you can see in these photos.
Getting a photo of St Nicolai's is quite difficult, I had to get a way down river to do it.
Due to its trading past, large swathes of the city resemble other cities. Although a whole quarter was once much like Amsterdam, most of this was lost during the great fire. These days it has been replaced by quite ugly, mass produced buildings.
Nevertheless, the canals of Hamburg remain spectacular. The city's history is evident from its reliance on these old waterways.
The port city is essentially a city within a city. The Hamburg government began buying land in secret years ago, with the intention of developing this part of the city as a single effort.
Still largely under development, it features a music hall which is supposed to resemble and rival the Sydney opera house. It has gone over-budget at least four times during its development, and will not be finished before 2020.
My favourite part of Hamburg was learning about Klaus Störtebeker, a pirate. Apart from the same old story of state-funded privateer going pirate, Klaus features as a Robin Hood figure in a number of north-German stories. He is also supposed to have walked, headless, after his execution.
The port city is something of an architectural wonderland.
Later in the day, I got to go up St Nic's tower, which offered a spectacular view of the city.
That night was also a magnificent adventure, but I have promised the Scoundrel that story as well. So I will sign off here on Hamburg, happy to report that it has charmed my utterly. Where once I could not wait to leave, now I can not wait to return.
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