Pomeranians

I had two nights in Swinoujscie, but not the same pressure for time I'd had in other parts of the trip.

First up; no matter how you think Swinoujscie is pronounced by reading it, it isn't. You're wrong.

WRONG

I didn't spend much of my first day in Swinoujscie in Swinoujscie, I took my time with the train across Wolin, getting a feel for the island (sand, farms, reeds). I asked the hotel staff the enst morning if there was a recommended way to see the town and they produced another handy map and I was on my way.

It took me right past the Monument With An Anchor

They were especially keen that I stop off and see the forts. There are three nearby (one just a short ferry ride away) and I was a bit underwhelmed. They were built in the 19th century by the Austro-Hungarian Empire a long way from the coast. There was no information on them inside or nearby, so I've no idea what they were supposed to defend.

Good view of the gate in the Angel Fort

I figured that by climbing to the top I could at least get a good view over Swinoujscie's many forests, but the forts were not even as tall as the nearby trees. They weren't built on high ground, they didn't look built to last... very odd forts.

Otherwise, Swinoujscie was a nice coastal town to visit. The esplanade was filled to bursting with German tourists and locals out walking their dogs (all one breed).  I got some lunch and spent the afternoon exploring the parks, forests and coast.

Sand. Pines. I've got this.

I had dinner in an Italian restaurant barely large enough for ten guests, the Italian cook and her Polish husband, the most irritable waiter this trip. But you can afford to be irritable when your food is this good. The pasta they made was outstanding, and they had the best Tiramisu I've had in my life.

Just great.

I had an early night, knowing that my next two days would be busy with travel.

Three fortresses, two farms and a burrito

"The island is first mentioned in 997, when the king, Olav Tryggvason, rowed out here, with two heads."
That got my attention.
"The head of the local king, his worst enemy, and the king's slave. They were put on stakes, facing Trondheim, so that all would know who ruled."
I had travelled to Munkholmen because it promised a fine view of the city from the water. I had not expected that the history of the place would be so interesting.

Also, it looked badass

Not many people had come out on the tour; a lot of local families had come to have picnics on the shore. But it was fascinating; from viking executions to Catholic power base, a fortress for repelling Swedes and a German flak emplacement.

Star shaped battlements for fighting with swords, round walls for guns. Things you learn.

The boat ride out, the tour and the ride back took most of the morning, so I had lunch at the Dromadar Kaffebar (best coffee in Norway!) for some lunch. There was a path uphill from there, and something strange on the map, so I wandered up to have a look.

Pretty good view from up there

It was a second fortress, recently opened to tourists. A strange experience; no ticket needed to enter, no information inside. Just a bunch of people having picnics.

Just... in a fortress

Norwegians, it seems, love picnics in fortresses. Considering the fortresses have all the best views, I can't fault them on that.

Back in town, I hopped on the number 8 bus out to the folk museum, an outdoor establishment founded by a rich Swiss couple. They have relocated historical buildings from all over Trondelag and have a traditional town, two farms and two churches set up around a high hill that was once a strategic fortress.

A typical post-reformation church with a modern era Norwegian man

One of the farms (the 'rich' farm) featured a house which was used only for wedding celebrations. I would liken this extravagance to a modern family in a landlocked country owning a boat; they don't use it very often, but that's not the point.

Inside was some amazing traditional Norwegian decoration, against a not-so-Norwegian white background (the artist was Dutch)

There was a fire a few years ago and they had to restore it.

But the best thing I learned there was the origin of the Scandinavian/Baltic cry of 'Skål!' when drinking.  It literally means 'Bowl!'

This is a Skål

At weddings the guests would all bring baskets of food. One of the women in the household would have to keep track of who brought what and make sure nobody was served their own food (a major insult). The man of the house was responsible for providing the beer, which he brought up from the cellar in large jugs and poured into a bowl or Skål which had cups floating in the beer. When a guest wanted another cup, he would call for the bowl.

There were also buildings and such

The museum's tavern came well recommended (online) and I stopped in for dinner. I had a reindeer burrito, with a kind of potato pancake instead of a tortilla. It was... pretty good.

That morning, out at Munkholmen, the tour guide had given me a nice tip.

"The statue of Olav Tryggvason, in the middle of town, has next to him a small lump. It is the head of Haakon Jarl. Most people miss it."

I know I had.

Can you see it?