One freezing day in Portland

Byways looks like a traditional American diner, and it was a surprise when our server offered to replace the potatoes and toast which came with our omelets with fruit. After an Argentinian-style dinner best described as 'hearty,' we were ready for a little fruit and jumped at the chance. This sort of thoughtful menu and service is part of why Portland is such a great city to visit.

The weather was not so accommodating. Temperatures stayed at or below 6 degrees all day. The decision to have breakfast and explore the Pearl District didn't seem so clever when we got underway. Wind pummeled us the whole way along Morrison street and a number of times we considered stopping early to eat, well, anywhere to get in out of the cold. It would have been a mistake, and it's great that we persevered.

After breakfast (and a number of cups of coffee), Ali came up with a plan. We hopped about the Pearl District, stopping in at clothing stores, book stores, cafes and anywhere else we could close the door behind us.

A stop at the University of Oregon let me top-up my supply of Ducks merchandise. We got another round of Voodoo Doughnuts, bought coffee from the renowned Stumptown Roasters and retreated to our hotel room. We needed a break from the cold and a rest before we tackled some of the recommended Portland spots.

The first stop was The Nines hotel, or more specifically the bar on top of the hotel, Departure.

Clouds are a constant companion in Portland.

Portland is not a very tall city. The floor-to-ceiling windows of the Departure lounge give views of downtown, the rivers, everything to the horizon.

I have just now realised I can see our hotel in this photo

It was a weeknight, so the west lounge was closed, but the view from the east bar was very impressive. Also impressive were the samosas. We stayed long enough to have one beer and then braved the Portland night toward our next stop.

In planning the activities for that night we made certain we never had to stay out in the cold too long, and that our walk from our last stop back to the hotel would not be too far. The furthest we strayed was for stop number two; Bailey's Taproom.

Porter on the left, pale on the right

Bailey's is all about beer. With twenty-four beers on tap and a constantly changing list it's a popular spot and while there was nowhere to sit the atmosphere was friendly and we had no problem standing. The only issue came from where we chose to leave our beers - a side-table which turned out to be the drop-off point for the local Mexican restaurant, which delivered to tables in the Taproom. The sight (and smell!) of the food being delivered nearly caused us to change our plans.

The Taproom was part of the last American adventure - the one which started this blog. It's also where I met Josh, who invited us to go tailgating at a Ducks game three years ago.

The list of beers on tap.

With appropriate haste we walked back down to Broadway and made a right to the Picnic House. We had seen the House while walking the day before, noted its funky decor, and moved on. But after a strong local recommendation we booked a table and went for one of the best meals we have eaten. I am going to cover it in some detail so, if you're hungry, get a snack.

For what it's worth, I recommend cheese.

We were hungry when we arrived, so straight away ordered the cheese platter and some garlic bread (and of course beer). What we were served could have been a meal in itself - five types of cheese, fruits and other assorted nibbles, and a loaf of bread.

That took a bit of time to get through. Our server (wisely) asked if we needed to make a choice from the mains menu or if we had enough.

We were ready for more.

Wild boar, house-made pasta.

The kitchen were happy to split a main for us, which was great, because the mains were huge and we were kind of full of cheese. With a history of trying new meats (especially while travelling) I was keen on the wild boar pasta. Ali was skeptical but a positive word from the server made it a winner.

If you go to Portland, if you go to Picnic House, if it's on the menu, get the wild boar. Tender, rich and perfectly cooked. We are still talking about it days later.

There's a way people sit after a satisfying meal, leaning back from the table with a lazy, sated expression. Our server read our body language and asked if we needed to see the dessert menu.

The smart thing would have been to say no. But damn it, in for a penny...

I am so glad we shared this.

Smore pudding. House-made marshmallows on a chocolate pudding dressed with crushed graham crackers. It was... great.

The back area was being used for Christmas parties and while we were eating a performance began - a reading of Dickens' A Christmas Carol, complete with rattling chains.

Obligatory lights photo

Full bellies made us want to walk for a while but once outside the cold night drove us toward the hotel. We paused long enough to take photos of the Christmas lights. There were carols, more readings in the square, a very Christmas-y feel. Christmas seems to be easier to do when it's not so hot you just want to lie around and drink.

This is Morrison street, which we stayed on

That was our last night in Portland. Kate met us for breakfast the next morning (a return to Mother's) and was kind enough to take us to the airport.

We arrived with time to spare. A lot of time, as it happened - due to weather and mechanical issues, our flight was delayed by a little over three hours. Portland airport is well put together, with a lot of local businesses inside the terminal. With five hours on our hands, we explored, had tea, a good lunch, and were ready to go when our flight for San Francisco finally arrived.

We even got an obligatory shot of the PDX carpet.

Like food? Beer? You'll like Portland.

In a way Portland was a perfect holiday spot. It isn't a tourist destination, so we weren't compelled to go and take photos of all of the 'must see' locations from guidebooks. Instead we spent our time wandering and, to be honest, eating.

Coming in from Hawaii we arrived late and needed food because we still felt like it was dinner time. The guy at the hotel desk recommended Paddy's, where they serve food til 2am and Ali got to have her first Mac & Cheese in the States.

It meant we got up quite late the next morning and had to find somewhere nearby for breakfast. A few blocks away was Mother's, where they were only too happy to split a hot breakfast and a bowl of fruit for us, which was lucky, because even that turned out to be too much food for us to finish. It was all for the best, because we were able to head to the world-famous Voodoo Doughnut, where we tried the Portland Cream and the Old Dirty Bastard.

Guess which is which.

We took the opportunity to get some shopping done. It was at or close to freezing the entire time we were in the city, so we both bought coats and then never left the apartment without them. Suitably rugged up we went for a walk along the river to take in some of the wonderful Portland weather which was... bracing.

There was no need to have lunch. Josh and Kate, heroes from the last American adventure, had arranged dinner, and had told us to come hungry.

It was good advice. They took us to Ox, and fed us crab and trout and skirt-steak and honey-glazed vegetables and oh goodness so many amazing things.

In return, we gave them Tim-Tams.

You'd be smiling too.

In the bistro under our hotel, a surly server brought us tea and we taught the Portlanders how to Tim-Tam-Slam, something I had promised to do for years.

Everybody loves Slams. Except my mum.

Since then I've received texts letting me know that they have introduced more people to the chocolate biscuit/tea wonder-from-down-under. Kate and Josh gave us a bunch of recommendations for the next day, and we took them all on board.

A day on the river

With only one full day in Portland, we took off across the nearest bridge to explore the CBD.  Downtown Portland is nice, but next to the sights of New York, London or Berlin it wasn't all that impressive.  It had its charms though.

Sitting on a big, smooth river, Portland felt a lot like home.

In the afternoon the Skeptic and I went for a run along the Willamette River.  It was a stunning day, and we both took our cameras.

There are loads of bridges in Portland.  This is one.

We weren't the only people out; Portland seems to be home to a number of active people.  There were a lot of runners, cyclists, rowers and dragonboaters out in the afternoon sun.

For those who care, this is a sixteen; sixteen sweep oars.

In the evening we went out to sample some local beers, of which there are many.  We started the night at Tug Boat.  Because of the volume of hops grown in Oregon, all of the local beers tend to be very strongly hopped.  After a few beers there we moved over to Bailey's Tap Room.  This brought the dual introductions of my new favourite beer and the people we would hang out with for the next couple of days.

The people of Oregon are incredibly nice, fun and borderline alcoholic.