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23 July 2012

If you had one day in Stockholm

"You have to see the Vasa," I was told before I left Australia. "You can't miss it, if you're in Stockholm."
Nils, one of the Austrians at the hostel, put it more eloquently. "The ship is... fucking... huge."

He wasn't wrong.

My mum said she wanted some photos with me in them. Thanks for making her happy, random Swedish dad.
Nils also warned us to get to the museum early. "By ten o'clock the tour buses arrive and you have to wait in line for, like, an hour," he said. I walked in at 0840 and took a few minutes to process what I was seeing.  The ship is enormous. Sixty nine meters long and about thirty tall (the tops of the masts were removed when she sank) it fills the huge space and commands constant attention.

But it's not just the size of the ship that captures you. German and Dutch sculptors were paid to create the beautiful carvings which decorate the ship.

The gunports had lions inside each cover. No two recovered were alike.
Using thousands of samples from all over the ship, researchers have an idea of the colours used. The result would have been... gaudy. But impressive. There's a mish-mash of mythology; Roman Emperors, Bible figures, traditional Norse legend, all with their own message for onlookers.

Tasteful and subdued.
And all of it displaying lions, the symbol of power and ferocity. The massive ship in the center of the museum is impressive enough; with flags flying and painted sculptures she would have been a marvel.

Some of the ingredients of the paints
The story of the Vasa is pretty astonishing. She sank twenty minutes into her maiden voyage when a strong breeze blew her over far enough that water came in through her lower gun-ports. With four of her sails still raised she sank by the island of Beckholmen.
(Quick aside - the hostel I'm staying in has named all its rooms after islands in the lake. I'm staying in the Beckholmen room)

The actual Vasa literally never looked like this model, because this one has all the sails raised.
The reigning theory is that the Vasa was too narrow. She was trying to be too many things. The king at the time wanted a ship with two gun decks and a fast ship, meaning she was too heavy and narrow, with not enough space for ballast to prevent tipping. But as our tour guide said; lucky for us. The waters of the Baltic preserve wooden ships better than any others in the world, so now Stockholm has an amazing museum.

The queue when I left. Went all the way down the street.
You might think it strange that I've written a post about how amazing this ship/museum is and included very few photos of the ship itself. The difficulty comes from the sheer size of the thing. It was very difficult to find a shot which would show her adequately.

Shot taken from the gallery at the aft, best I could do.
I dunno, maybe see it for yourself?

1 comment:

  1. Thank you darling, its not often you do what I ask! XX from your dear mama.

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