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07 August 2012

Forward

In high school, I was in Nansen house. When I found out that the ship built for Fridtjof Nansen, the Fram, was in a museum, I was keen to see it.

Turned out to be a pretty amazing museum.

Fram
Much like the Vasa museum in Stockholm, the Fram museum is built around the ship, with three levels of catwalks providing different perspectives on the ship.

At the moment they also have a special exhibit on the tragic Terra Nova Antarctic expedition. As this was on the ground floor, it was my first stop.

Note Shackleton's crazy-eyes and monobrow
The exhibit went step by step through the Scott expedition. Some of it I knew already (the rivalry with Shackleton, losing to the Norwegians, Oates' last words) but there were some personal items on display, along with some interesting facts I'd not heard.

Roald Amundsen (whom the museum held up as the greatest explorer of all time, but they are a touch biased) left two letters at the pole. The first was written to the King of Norway confirming his reaching the South Pole, the second to Scott asking him to deliver the first. I guess you don't become the greatest explorer of all time without being a touch audacious.

None of these photos came out very well
The crucial difference between the Vasa museum and the Fram museum can be found at the top level where, to my great joy, I discovered I could walk aboard the Fram. And inside it. A number of the decks and cabins were open and items from the various expeditions were on display. Unfortunately they proved difficult to photograph due to the lighting used in the museum.

Good diorama or great diorama?
The Fram is a big fat tub. She is tall and not very long which, when you consider she was built to spend years in the Arctic ice, makes sense. She was designed so that under the pressure of the ice she would rise up rather than crack.

The Fram museum also had a number of exhibits on the explorers who had used the Fram. First amongst them was Fridtjof Nansen.

Penetrating stare
I did not know, before I went, how dedicated to science he was. In fact, he wanted more scientists on the first Fram expedition, but couldn't find any who were willing to put up with the conditions (years living on the ice shelf). He himself was a biologist and oceanographer who ensured that scientific discovery remained as important to the Norwegian Arctic and Antarctic programs as the race to the Poles.

I want one.
  
Say cheese!
Outside the museum stands a set of statues commemorating the first men to arrive at the South Pole. They're all facing south. It was a beautiful day in Oslo, hot and humid with clear skies. They looked out of place in their polar gear.

05 August 2012

Oh ship!

Okay. This one has been a little while coming.

I went to Oslo to see the viking ships. There are three in the astutely named Viking Ship Museum (not to be confused with the museum of the same name and subject matter in Roskilde). The museum is a fjord away from the city center, where I was staying. There's a bus which goes (very) regularly but the best way to get across is by ferry.

It offers great views of the fortress.
It was good museum weather the morning I went over, and a lot of people seemed to have the same idea as me - even at 9am the ferry was full. The area it goes to has the Ship museum, the Cultural History Museum, the Maritime Museum, the Kon Tiki museum and the Fram museum all within a couple of kilometers.

Forward!
I got to the Fram museum later in the day, but I'm covering that in a separate post.

So. The ships. I fought through the eight (8!) bus loads of Spanish and Russian tourists (my first boganskiis!) and got my first look at the most famous item in the collection, the Osberg ship.

Click for the full size photo, have a look at the carving.
The Osberg ship is important for a bunch of reasons. It was the burial ship for a woman of importance (women were respected, respected women were buried like men). It is the most complete ship found to date, and there was a lot of stuff on board. All the gold and silver had been removed by grave robbers and, if there were any weapons originally buried, these were taken too. What was left was still fascinating; animals, a functioning cart, a few sleds, tools for food preparation and textile manufacture, all things to make life easier in the next world.

View from the stern; note the small rudder
The shape of the ship is also interesting. It sits low, only three or four boards above the water line. This, combined with the intricate carvings at the bow and stern leads people who know stuff about boats to think it was a pleasure craft, used for 'royal' days on the water. That this person was rich enough to have a leisure craft is fascinating as well. What interested me is that there is clearly a deck, with removable planks. I've since read that these could be lifted to bail the ship.

Next was the Gokstad Ship. Of the three, this was my pick.

Note the oar holes, the difference in the depth of the keel
Like the Osberg, this was a burial ship and like the Osberg, all the pretty stuff had been nicked by grave robbers. None of that matters though, because the boat itself is fascinating.

The rudder is huge, especially compared to the Osberg; even the tiller is much larger. But most interesting; it's removable. It could be lifted to allow this ship, which has a much deeper draft than the pleasure-boat above, to move through shallow waters without damaging the steering.

Also cool were the oar holes, which could be covered with wooden flaps to stop water coming in when the oars were shipped. The Gokstad ship is easily the largest clinker I've seen (it would have had 32 Oarsmen) and was reinforced with ribs. Much larger than this and the ship can't be clinker built.

What remains of the Tune Ship
The Tune Ship is the worst preserved of the three. It's also built of clinkered oak and would have been smaller than the others (around 24 oars).

Burial tent
Along with the Tune Ship were a number of larger items taken from the other burials; a tent, where the human remains and personal belongings were found in the Gokstad burial, and the Gokstad boats.

Smaller clinker boats from the Gokstad
The burial items reinforced both the intricacy and beauty of Viking era woodwork and the extended trading network that the Scandinavians possessed.

Wagon from the Osberg
I found it interesting that while the wagon would have been used only for special occasions, the sleighs would have been in common use. Dogs to pull the sleighs and horses for the wagon were also found in the Osberg grave.

Sleigh bar from the Osberg
And while robbers took all the silver and gold pieces from the burials, they did not take every item of bronze or iron, leaving behind some fascinating jewelry.

Smaller pieces, from all over the world
A lot of these decorate other simple items; the sheath of a knife or a belt or the like.

More shiny stuff
Upstairs they had the human remains from the graves on display. For all the talk of giant viking warriors, I need to remember that these people lived a thousand years ago. Tall meant something different then. One of them, a king in his prime, had legs which were not even as long as my arm. They might have been tall for their time, but we would tower over them today.

Keep that in mind when looking at the photos of the ships. What looks impressive to us would have been enormous to these tiny vikings.

And before I knew it, it was lunch time. I stepped out into the sunlight (it had become a beautiful day - see the photos from that afternoon, below) and went in search of a sandwich, a cup of coffee and the Fram.

Forward!

04 August 2012

Some things I saw while running in Oslo

Parliament

Royal palace

Carl Johan

Sculpture park




Nobel peace center (threatening rain but it passed)



Things to do near Drammen

Mum sent me an email. "Drammen doesn't look very exciting." She wasn't wrong. Some pretty bridges and a nice river, but I didn't get far from the train station while I was there.

What Drammen did do was let me spend a day exploring Horten (The sunny part of Norway! It rained the entire time I was there). Overlooking the fjord in a spot called Borre is the Midgard Historical Center.

Built in a barrows field, the center has a number of artifacts recovered from the field on display. Most of these were discovered when the barrows were being dug to lay train tracks.

A sword and a spearhead
The center also provided the most comprehensive information about life in the viking times that I've seen so far. The collection was small but very well curated.

This sword was intentionally bent out of shape before burial, the theory being that it had to 'die' to travel to the afterlife.
But even without the artifacts on display, my trip to Borre would have been worthwhile for one piece of information I gathered while there - details about Viking era Novgorod, the one city I am not able to visit on this trip. My research so far had given me everything I needed except one crucial detail - Holmgard, the fortified island on the Volga, was an earth fort, not a stone fort.

Long spearhead for stabbing, short spearhead for throwing
I'll happily recommend the center to anybody looking to fill a day in southern Norway. It only takes an hour or two to see the exhibits and has a good cafe, friendly staff, and is situated in an interesting and historic part of the country. They tell me it stops raining sometimes, as well.

A decorated thing that was buried. Really, that's what the card said!
The field the center is situated in is supposed to be the burial place of the Yngling kings, but given that the same claim was made of the barrows I visited in Uppsala, I'm not certain how much credit I'd give the theory. The Ynglings seem to be the subject of a Scandinavian pissing contest - I've got more buried than you do.

Barrows! Well, barrow.
The rest of the day was given over to getting to Oslo (bus to Skoppum, train to Drammen, pick my bags up, train to Skøyen, bus to Oslo). The next day; Viking ships.

03 August 2012

Stavanger to Drammen

After the walk to and from Pulpit Rock, I failed to take any photos of Stavanger whatsoever.

Do not let this impact your view of the town. It was a very nice place, I just failed to take photos. I left early in the morning for an eight hour train ride to Drammen.

I have noticed, taking trains in Norway, that I am always high above something or far below something or, often, both at once. Through this part of the country I also passed more farmland than I've seen so far.

Moo!
In Drammen I experienced a common travelling issue - I needed more vegetables. Luckily there was a Lebanese restaurant outside where I was staying. They interpreted "vegetarian meal for one," as "give me all the food you have in your kitchen," and sent me back to my room with a shamefully large bag of take-away.

It was really good.
I still hadn't worked out if it was possible for me to get to Horten in the morning, or if I would be carrying on straight to Oslo. I set an early alarm.

02 August 2012

This must be what Skyrim feels like

They say that in the south of Norway it rains more than 300 days a year. This has been a particularly wet year. I woke up in Stavanger and it was raining. I had breakfast and it was raining. I checked the ferry timetable and it was raining.

I went to Stavanger with the purpose of seeing the Pulpit Rock. No way was rain going to stop me. When a break in the weather came I jumped on a ferry, caught the bus and started a hike that over 150,000 tourists make every year. Many of them with their dogs.

Wooden path, not raining - so far so good.
The path was mostly made of rocks. When it was flat I stepped or jumped from one to the next, but more often than not it seemed to be going straight up or down and I realised, in a moment of nerdy shock, that this must be how my Skyrim character feels.

Sorry, Knut. You're a trooper.

A ways into the trek there was a signpost indicating that the marked path (spray-painted arrows) split in two - cliff path and hill path.

Does anybody pick the hill path? Does it even really exist? I have no idea.

Around the cliff path it became clear that the clouds, which had held off for most of my journey, would not hold off much longer.

Bit of weather coming in
With such a clear destination in mind (the rock, always the rock) it was tricky to take the time out to enjoy the views on the way up.

Not at Pulpit Rock yet, so not allowed to enjoy this
The last hundred meters or so were the most interesting. At one stage the path fell away, with a single rocky outcrop, only a few inches wide, provided the only foothold to cross. It was scary for me, difficult for people with shorter legs, and very interesting for those who had brought their dogs.

But it was all worth it for the spectacular Pulpit Rock...

...can you see it?
Six hundred meters straight up and completely encased in fog. In a rain cloud.

I took a few photos from the edge but they came out white. No view at all. A little to my left was a girl lying with her hands out over the space.

"Move forward," her boyfriend called. He was holding a camera. "It doesn't look like you're over."
"I'm not going forwards or backwards," she said. "I'm not moving anywhere."
"It's not much of a photo," he said.

As they pulled themselves upright I asked if they would mind taking my photo.

"Why don't I get one from over there?" Tiff offered. I agreed.
I sat on the edge with my feet out over... nothing. Tiff took a photo and checked the result. "Hang on a sec," she called. "I want to get another one."

Take the photo take the photo take the photo take the photo...
The record will show that I've sat in a similar spot on the Grand Canyon. This was a completely different experience. There is nothing beneath you, nothing at all. With the fog all around us, if somebody slipped off the edge they would just... disappear.

For scale; the white streak is a passing tour boat
Kyan and Tiff and I went exploring around the hill and found some spots where the cloud had cleared to get some better shots.

Just to prove I was somewhere awesome
It rained harder on the way back down. By the time I reached the bottom I was drenched, but happy that I had made the journey. In the forty minutes I had until the bus arrived, I amused myself by taking photos of the car park.

This isn't even scenery. This is just where I caught the bus.
I was exhausted. The pamphlet had said it was an eight hour round journey, but I was back inside six. I got a pizza to eat in my room (it was a really good pizza, they seem to make really good pizza in Norway), watched the Olympics, made some waffles (love these hotels) and went to bed.

Photos from the bus

The Coast Bus goes hourly from Bergen to Stavanger and back again. It uses two ferries to cross the fjords, goes over, under and around mountains and offers very few opportunities to get out and take photos. Except, obviously, on the ferry.

Very easy from the ferry
It was a good opportunity to see some parts of the country I haven't seen, with all its beauty and its danger.

Fair warning.
The weather out of Bergen was fantastic, bright and warm until we hit the second ferry.

The sky was almost blue.

After that, though, it started raining. It's been raining since then.